20 Aug WE DON’T NEED A HOME, WE NEED OUR BLOOD RUNNING
Some old friends are kind of worried about me: “dude, you need to figure out something for the next few months. Are you gonna get a stable job?”. It’s so pointless when people ask me about what I’m gonna do next season. Here, nobody asks about the future, because we all know it doesn’t exist.
I wake up with the birds. I haven’t opened my eyes yet, but I can hear the brave ocean from here. What better way to get the day started. I get out of the tent. I breathe: the air here is different. Through the pines, the sun begins to appear and one of its rays points to her: handling a warm coffee with her hands covered by a long sleeved shirt. She stares and smiles at me, probably because of my messy hair and my sleepy face. Nice.
We always have a big healthy breakfast first, then we take our boards, get into the car and go looking for the next place to surf. Mariano is driving and checking the waves through the window at the same time. While he is at the wheel, we talk about last night. We had a really good time around the barbecue and fragments of our dreams slowly appeared in the conversations: get bigger boards to ride bigger waves; new roads to create with our own steps. You know, feed the wanderlust.
We finally came to the right spot. To get to the sea we have to trespass giant pinecones that stick on the ground like towers guarding the sea. We don’t care, whatever is the sacrifice to meet the ocean. It is always there, waiting for us to play with it. It’s our garden, our playground. I will surf while my body is still producing heat. If I can’t paddle or stand up, I will go back to bodyboarding.
On the way to try to find the shore, I look at the four of us and I know we feel the same: We are like the family we choose We have a lucky star to wish upon We don’t stop at red lights We play in the rain instead of getting wet We look at the world with glittering eyes
And when we get where we wanted, we start our journey again. Because we don’t need a home, we need our blood running.